Hakama Trousers - practice

Day 2 -

Made the back panel. Cut out the overall shape then pinned in the pleats. The pleats at the back are 2 per panel. As it wasn't specify whereabouts the pleats should be, I made one between the middle seam and the middle of the panel and another between the middle of the panel and the side vent seam.

Back Panel without pleats

Back Panel with pleats - front view

Back Panel - side view

Back panel - back view

Back Panels with pleats pinned in

During my research, I have only come across the history of the Hakama Trousers and some patterns. How it is sewn together - well I improvised. Here's how:

1) Sew the pleats into the fabric - this is to create the pleat creases along down the whole of the trousers. I sew it from the top till the end of the crotch line and allow the pleat to naturally crease for the rest of the length of the trouser. 

2) Sew the 2 front panels together and then the 2 back panels together via the crotch seam. REMEMBER to sew from top of the crotch seam to the end and not down the rest of the length of the trouser, otherwise it would be a skirt.

3) Sew the sides together, from the hem to the beginning of the side vent seam. According to the pictures I have come across during my research, the side vent seam which goes from waist till under the buttocks are open, almost like a slit - a large one at that. Not to sure why - probably because it needs extra movement. Don't worry, you won't see the bum as the trousers is normally worn over the kimono top.

Sewing the pleats

Below are pictures of what it would have looked like when it is worn. The only thing missing is the waistband.

Front View

Side View

Back View

Mistakes:

1) Have the crotch seam start at the top instead of 6 inches down - this to give a sense of comfort as well as movement while walking. When I was wearing this and walking around, I could feel the restrictions as the crotch seam reached down to my mid thigh, allowing the movement to commence from the knees instead of from the thighs or the hips. 

What's to come:

The finishing of the trousers - the waistband and the hemming.